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When assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has left the family completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.